Sunday, November 19, 2017

Barley Ridge Earmwarmer for the Holiday Stashdown 2017 - Free Crochet Pattern

This is my third time participating in the Holiday Stashdown #CALCentralCrochet. I just love being able to go through yarn in my stash, and get some holiday gifts done up. This year there are 16 free crochet patterns being shared, and a great giveaway. Visit my Time for the Holiday Stashdown CAL 2017 page for more information!

This year, I wanted to change up my design. In previous stashdown's I worked up cowls, but this year, I wanted to make something I could actually wear here in Florida when it gets cold out. Typically, it's only cold out in the mornings and evenings, and hot during the day - too hot really for a cowl. This earwarmer is easy to stash in a purse or even pocket of large jacket when it gets too warm out, or going inside.

Materials:
     - 50 - 65 Yards of Super Bulky Yarn - I used Wool Ease Thick & Quick Yarn in the Barley colorway
     - N15/10mm Crochet Hook
     - M13/9mm Crochet Hook for Gauge
     - Yarn Eyed Tapestry Needle OR a Small Crochet Hook (I used a G6/4.25mm hook) for Weaving in Ends

Material Notes:
     Yarn Alternatives: Lion Brand's Hometown Yarn, Red Heart's Grande Yarn. You can also try two or three strands of worsted weight yarn held together - this will vary depending on yarn chosen. 

Measurements:
     The Toddler Size is 8.75" wide to equal a circumference of 17.5" to fit a head size of 18-20", and is 3.25" in length.

The Child Size - Teen/Adult Small Size is 9.75" wide to equal a circumference of 19.5" to fit a head size of 20-22", and is 3.25" in length.

The Adult Large Size is 10.25" wide to equal a circumference of 20.5" to fit a head size of 22-23", and is 3.25" in length.

Gauge:
     With an M13/9mm Crochet Hook: 8 SC by 8 Rows = 4" by 4 1/8"

Abbreviations:
     - FHDC - Foundation Half Double Crochet
     - HDC - Half Double Crochet
     - SC - Single Crochet
     - yo - Yarn Over

Special Stitches:
     Working Into the 3rd Loop: In this pattern, I state to work into the 3rd loop. Where is the 3rd loop? I don't have a photo tutorial at the moment, but look at the two loops that you normally work into, then rotate just a little so you can see the wrong side of the earmwarmer. See that other loop just behind the back loop of the two loops that you normally work into? That is the 3rd loop! By working into this stitch, it will pull two other two loops forward to create the ridge pattern.

FHDC: Foundation stitches are worked sideways and include the foundation chain and respective stitch. This is a great technique to use if: 1.) You are working something in the round that needs some added flexibility within the beginning chain, such as a hat worked bottom up, wrist warmers, shirts, pants, etc; 2.) You are working a project like a scarf, but don't know how many stitches you need. You can work the foundation stitch up until it's long enough.
        To FHDC: Chain 2 (counts as a stitch here). Yo, insert hook into the first chain, yo, pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through first loop (to create foundation chain), yo, pull through the remaining 3 loops. First chain and HDC created. Looking at the stitch in your hand, you should see the top of the HDC to the right, and parallel on the left side, it should look like the opposite side of the beginning foundation chain. You will be working in these stitches on the left. To create the next stitch and each stitch after, yo, insert hook under both loops of the foundation chain (left side), yo, pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through first loop (to create foundation chain), yo, pull through the remaining 3 loops.

Pattern Notes:
     You will be working in a continuous round to avoid an unsightly seam. 

If you don't want to work a Foundation Half Double Crochet to start the earmwarmer with, you can loosely work a beginning chain of 41, and work into the back bump of the 3rd stitch from the hook, and into each stitch across, then proceed to Round 2.

Instructions for the toddler size are shown, with the other two sizes in parenthesis.

Pattern:
Chain 2. FHDC 37 (41, 43). Do NOT join. (38, 42, 44 HDC)

R2: Working into the 3rd loop: SC into the next HDC, HDC into each of the next 37 (41, 43) HDC. Do NOT join. [1 SC, 37 (41, 43) HDC]

R3 - 5: Working into the 3rd loop: HDC into the next HDC, and into each of the next 37 (41, 43) HDC. Do NOT join. (38, 42, 44 HDC)

R6: Working into the 3rd loop, SC into the next 2 HDC, skip the next stitch, and then slip stitch into the back loop (not 3rd loop) of the next stitch.

Fasten Off, and Weave in Ends.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Ridge Earwarmer using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

*If you would like a PDF version of this post, you may get one through my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy Shop for a small fee. This fee is to compensate for the view/s lost once you no longer need to return to the blog for the information, as you will have your own copy. Plus! It helps fund supplies for new projects to share with you!
Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy - Barley Ridge Earwarmer
or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy - Barley Ridge Earwarmer.

Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Share your version of this project on Ravelry - Barley Ridge Earwarmer. Check out the EyeLoveKnots Ravelry page to keep track of all your EyeLoveKnots favorites in your que, and share your WIPS and finished projects!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!

Don't Crochet but Interested in Purchasing a Ridge Earwarmer?
     Visit the EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop to see what I have available! Use the search box to type in what you have in mind, or feel free to send me a message with your custom request. I am happy to make in any custom size and/or color. View color options here: Wool Ease Thick & Quick Yarn.

You May Also Like...
Barley Star Stitch Cowl - Free Crochet Pattern 
Whimsical Sashay Cowl - Free Crochet Pattern

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Time for the Holiday Stashdown CAL 2017!

Time for the third annual Holiday Stashdown! It's such a great privilege to be part of this CAL along with 15 other crochet designers to share 16 free crochet patterns for holiday gift and decoration projects with you!
Each pattern will be a one-skein project, or a stashbuster/scrappy project, so you can work from your own existing yarn stash to make a great holiday gift. (If you’d like to go ahead and buy some yarn just for the project, that’s ok, too! We love yarn as much as you do!)
HOW TO JOIN IN THE HOLIDAY STASHDOWN CAL
Every Monday from September 4th through December 11th, 2017, a new crochet pattern will be shared. There's even a bonus pattern to be found THIS Friday, September 24th!
  • You can join in by crocheting each of the patterns as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet on all social media.
  • Chat with other crocheters in our Facebook and Ravelry groups.
  • By the end of the crochet-a-long, you’ll have 16 great gifts for the holiday season.
2017 HOLIDAY STASHDOWN RELEASE SCHEDULE:
From December 12th through January 7th of 2018, you will be able to crochet at your own pace to finished up yours projects.

In order to enter the giveaway, you will need to link up your projects to the Underground Crafter's Giveaway page by 11:59pm EST on Monday, January 8th of 2018! If you don't blog, you can still link up with your project link from Instagram, Ravelry, Twitter, Tumbler, etc just NOT an Etsy listing.
So many generous sponsors, including me! See a complete list above, and get more information on the Underground Crafter's Giveaway page.
I am releasing my pattern at midnight EST, so make sure to tune back in tomorrow for the Barley Ridge Earwarmer crochet pattern!

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Saturday, November 11, 2017

Fall Inspired, Super Simple Hexagon Coasters - Free Crochet Pattern

This week, I wanted to work up some turkey coasters, but after two different failed attempts, I was inspired by one of them to work a Super Simple Hexagon Coaster. I did so with the same colors used in my turkey coasters, minus red, and created a fall inspired set. They could easily be worked up for any holiday or season with a color change, or work in one solid color.

Materials:
     - 15 Yards Each of Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn - I used Lily Sugar n Cream in Warm Brown, and Crafters Secret Cotton in Yellow and Bright Orange
     - I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
     - #18 Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
     - Optional: Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:
     Yarn Alternatives: Lion Brand's Kitchen Cotton, Peaches n Cream, Bernat's Handicrafter. 

Jewelry Pliers... They are great to have on hand when weaving in ends of cotton yarn, as cotton can sometimes be difficult to pull a needle through. Simply grab your needle with the jewelry pliers instead of your fingers, and pull gently so as not to break a needle.

Time Spent:
     Each coaster works up in just under 15 minutes, so under an hour for a set of four.

Measurements:
     4.5" Across Legs of Hexagon

Gauge:
     3" Diameter After Round 3.

Abbreviations:
     - SC - Single Crochet
     - HDC - Half Double Crochet

Pattern Notes:
     Seam in Rounds 1 through 3 is split to keep it straight. First stitch is worked to the left of the beginning chain, and the "last" stitch is worked to the right of the beginning chain.

Join to the first stitch, not beginning chain. Beginning chain does not count as a stitch.

To change yarn colors, I joined as normal, then I pulled the new color through the loop on the hook, and pulled both tails tight to hide the original loop that was on the hook. The change is seamless. Feel free to change in last step of join if more comfortable in that manner.

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Pattern:
     In Brown, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 1. Work 10 SC into the ring. Join. (10 SC)

R2: Chain 1. HDC into the first SC, 2 HDC into each of the next 9 SC, HDC into the next SC. Join. (20 HDC)

R3: Chain 1. HDC into the first 2 SC, (2 HDC into the next HDC, HDC into the next HDC) 9x, HDC into the next HDC. Join with Yellow, and Fasten Off Brown. (30 HDC)

R4: With Yellow, chain 1. HDC into the first HDC, [(HDC, chain 1, HDC) into the next HDC, HDC into each of the next 4 HDC] 5x, (HDC, chain 1, HDC) into the next HDC, HDC into each of the next 3 HDC. Join with Orange, and Fasten Off Yellow. (24 HDC, 6 V-Stitches)

R5: With Orange, chain 1. HDC into the first 2 HDC, [(HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the next chain 1 space, HDC into each of the next 5 HDC] 5x, (HDC, chain 2, HDC) into the next chain 1 space, HDC into each of the next 3 HDC. Join, and Fasten Off. (30 HDC, 6 V-Stitches)

Weave in Ends.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Super Simple Hexagon Coasters using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.
*If you would like a PDF version of this post, you may get one through my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy Shop for a small fee. This fee is to compensate for the view/s lost once you no longer need to return to the blog for the information, as you will have your own copy. Plus! It helps fund supplies for new projects to share with you!
Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy - Coming Soon
or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy - Super Simple Hexagon Coasters.

Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Share your version of this project on Ravelry - Super Simple Hexagon Coasters. Check out the EyeLoveKnots Ravelry page to keep track of all your EyeLoveKnots favorites in your que, and share your WIPS and finished projects!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!

Don't Crochet but Interested in Purchasing a set of Hexagon Coasters?

     Visit the EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop to see what I have available! Use the search box to type in what you have in mind, or feel free to send me a message with your custom request. I am happy to make in any custom size and/or color. View color options here: Crafter's Secret Cotton YarnLily Sugar n Cream.

You May Also Like...
Slanted Shell Coasters - Free Crochet Pattern
Cross Stitch Alien Coasters - Free Crochet Pattern
Cat Face Coasters - Free Crochet Pattern

Thursday, November 2, 2017

Acorn Pixel Art Throw Pillow - Free Crochet Pattern

Yay! This is the 11th post of the year for the 2017 GrannySpiration Challenge! I am so excited to see what everyone has been working on, especially you! At the end of this post, you will find the information for this month's giveaway, and link up. Only two challenge link ups left!

Near the end of September, I shared a free crochet pattern for an Acorn Pixel Art Square. In this post, I gave several ideas for what could be done with the square, and mentioned I had something in the works myself. Well, here it is! An Acorn Pixel Art Throw Pillow!
My sweet Shiloh keeping my company outside while I work on my back piece.
I will admit, I waited til the very end to put this together. I created the whole back and seamed together in just three days. Why did I rush? You will have to wait until next week to find out! Until then... Enjoy the pattern!

Please make sure to stop by our other co-host and see what they've been working on too. 

Marjan from Atelier Marie-Lucienne
Sandra from Hakelfieber Austria (in German)
Jenny from Crochet is the Way
Rhelena from Crochet n Crafts
Mariam from Mariam's Creations: Recycle and Create

Materials:
     - *For Back Panel: 330 Yards of Lightweight #3 Yarn - I used Baby Bee's Sweet Delight Yarn in Teddy [Light Brown] and Chocolate [Dark Brown]
     - G6/4mm Crochet Hook
     - #18 Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
     - 16" or 17" Pillow Form

Material Notes:
     Yarn Alternative: Anne Geddes Baby. Any weight yarn will also work for this project with respective crochet hook. Different weights will produce different sized squares.

*For complete throw pillow, you will need 660 Yards of Lightweight #3 Yarn.

Time Spent:
     This square took me about 7 and a half hours to complete - I worked about a row a day, including the weaving for that row.

Measurements:
     Finished size is 16" square - To fit a 16" or 17" pillow form.

Gauge:
     First square measures 2". 

Abbreviations:
     - DC - Double Crochet
     - SC - Single Crochet
     - sc2tog - Single Crochet Two Stitches Together (decrease)
     - PLT - Pull Loop Through (Join)
       To PLT: After DC, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through the corresponding stitch on MB and pull loop through

Pattern Notes:
The beginning chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain 3, and the beginning chain 2 counts as the first double crochet.


Join to the second chain of the beginning chain, not the first stitch, except in the border - here you'll join to the first single crochet.


You may work this art piece with a variety of joining methods, but I joined mine using the Pull Loop Through Method, and this pattern will be written as such. If you choose to work all the squares first, and then sew them together, you will need: 64 in Teddy. A different joining method may also create a larger or smaller finished piece. Make sure to measure!


In the instructions, I refer to MA, MB and MD. These are the motifs. MA is the current motif you are working on. MB is the first one you join to, MC is skipped and MD is the second one you join to, which is diagonal from MB. I only refer to these motifs in the one and two join instructions.
I highly recommend weaving in your ends as you complete each row, otherwise, at the end you could be left with so many ends, this square may end up in your WIPs bin, instead of being completed.
I will let you in on a little secret... I cut this end, not noticing I hadn't weaved it in yet. Oh no! The trick to fixing this - hot glue! A small dab, hold tail end for a few moments to secure down and problem solved! Be careful not to burn yourself, and make sure your tail end is spun to look neat, and lays in a position on the square not to be seen through the corner chain spaces from the right side.
I worked my back piece in the envelope style so I can take my pillow form out, and store cover when not in season. Alternatively to this, you can create a single piece 8 squares by 8 squares, and then work the border just like the front pattern, and seam as listed below, but the pillow form will not be removable.
When working the reverse single crochet into the corners, you will want to hold the previous reverse single crochets already worked into the corner with your middle finger, as shown. This will prevent them from stacking up.

Front Panel (Acorn) Pattern:
Visit my Acorn Pixel Art Square to Complete the Front Panel.

Back Panel (Envelope) Pattern:
Work 2 complete 3” Solid Granny Squares in Teddy.
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 3x, DC into the next 2 DCs and Join. Fasten Off. (28 DC)


*This square will be the bottom right square of each piece. Set the second one aside, and continue on.


Working with the Join-As-You-Go PLT Method, you will have squares that require one join, and squares that require two joins - these are described below.      


To Work Square with 1 Join:
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 2x, DC into the last 2 DCs and Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

To Work Square with 2 Joins:
    Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)


R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1];
[(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1];
2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space], DC into the last 2 DCs and Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)
The solid lines represent 1 Join; The dotted lines represent 2 Joins; The black dots represent where the layers will overlap, with the layer piece on top.
Part 1: Following this chart, continue working solid granny squares and joining them as outlined above to create the top of your back panel. I began with the bottom right square of each piece, and worked across to the left, working in the same manner as the Acorn Pixel Art. Please refer back to the Acorn Pixel Art post if you need more information about this chart. Completely fasten off, and set aside after Part 1 has been completed - 8 squares wide by 6 squares tall.

Part 2: Now, grab your second 3" solid granny square, and begin again, this time working a smaller piece that will serve as the bottom of your back panel. Work in the same manner as above. After Part 2 is done - 8 squares wide by 4 squares tall - proceed to the border.

Border:
    With Teddy, join yarn to top right corner. Chain 1. SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches;
SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 4x, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches. Layer pieces with the next square of the current piece on top of the smaller piece so you work through both layers for the next two squares, and SC2tog over both squares chain spaces - the 1st being a single layer, and the second half of the decrease being through both layers, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces - the 1st being through both layers, and the second half of the decrease being through a single layer again, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches;
SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches;
SC in the chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches. Layer pieces with the next square of the previous piece on top of the current smaller piece so you work through both layers again for the next two squares, and SC2tog over both squares chain spaces - the 1st being a single layer, and the second half of the decrease being through both layers, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces - the 1st being through both layers, and the second half of the decrease being through a single layer again, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 5x, SC into the same chain space just worked, and the next 7 stitches;
SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches. Join. (315 SC)
R2: Chain 1. SC into the 1st SC and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 78 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 77 SCs. Join with Chocolate, and fasten off Teddy. (324 SC)
R3: With Chocolate, Chain 1. SC into the 1st 2 SCs and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 80 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 78 SCs. Join, but DON'T fasten off - just pull up a loop so yarn loop doesn't come out. (332 SC)
Sew in Border Ends.
Assembly:
Lay the two pieces with wrong sides together. You want the back panel to have the longer piece on top.
Hold the two layers together. Reinsert hook into the loop, and pull to normal tension. Insert hook into the first stitch of both layers, and complete a slip stitch to secure layers, and chain 1.
We will be working a reverse single crochet edge to join the two layers. When inserting hook into the stitch, you'll want to lightly hold with your index finger as shown, otherwise stitch will twist. Reverse single crochet (also known as the crab stitch) is worked counter-clockwise so, you'll be inserting the hook into the previously stitch, instead of moving forward. Be patient while working this stitch pattern so your stitches are nice and even, and not on top of each other. The pattern itself will take on a twisted appearance, which is really neat! No worries - it's easy!
Alternatively, you can chain 1, turn and begin working this pattern so the twisted pattern is on the opposite side with the acorn. I didn't on purpose because I thought the more plain side deserved a little more attention. You can also whipstitch or slip stitch the panels together, or work in regular single crochet through both layers. I like the reverse single crochet, and the clean and unique look it gives both sides.
Left: Shows from Back; Right: Shoes from Front.
Working through both layers AND counter-clockwise, work a reverse SC into the last stitch, and into each of the next 79 SCs, work 3 reverse SC into the chain space - corner, [reverse SC into the next 82 SCs, work 3 reverse SC into the chain space - corner, reverse SC into the same chain space] 3x, reverse SC into the next 2 SCs. Work a final reverse SC into the first stitch, and fasten off. Turn to wrong side, and weave in your final end/s. (344 Reverse SC)
You will notice the back of your pillow may not line up due to the pillow form stretching it - my finger showing where the top line would fall if no pillow form were inserted. The overlap was intentionally put in to accommodate for this. If it bothers you, you can always add a button or two.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Acorn Square Throw Pillow using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

*If you would like a PDF version of this post, you may get one through my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy Shop for a small fee. This fee is to compensate for the view/s lost once you no longer need to return to the blog for the information, as you will have your own copy. Plus! It helps fund supplies for new projects to share with you!
Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy - Coming Soon

or EyeLoveKnots Craftsy - Acorn Pixel Art Throw Pillow.

With so many size, yarn type and color options, I would love to see them! Join the EyeLoveKnots Crafting Community to share your creations, and see what other's are up to! 

Share your version of this project on Ravelry - Acorn Pixel Art Throw Pillow. Check out the EyeLoveKnots Ravelry page to keep track of all your EyeLoveKnots favorites in your que, and share your WIPS and finished projects!

Don't miss out on new crochet patterns, reviews, jewelry tutorials and more! Subscribe to EyeLoveKnots by using the box on the right side toolbar, or follow me via Bloglovin! You can also find me sharing on the EyeLoveKnots Facebook page, and @EyeLoveKnots on Twitter!


Don't Crochet but Interested in Purchasing an Acorn Throw Pillow?
     Visit the EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop to see what I have available! Use the search box to type in what you have in mind, or feel free to send me a message with your custom request. I am happy to make in any custom size and/or color. View color options here: Sweet DelightAnne Geddes Baby.

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This Month's Giveaway is sponsored by myself, Alexandra of EyeLoveKnots. One winner will receive a $20 Etsy Gift Card. For winner, same terms as before... This is purchased in US Dollars. If you have an Etsy account set up to use a different form of currency, you will need to temporarily change your settings to US Dollars to use this gift card, then just change your settings back when you are done!

a Rafflecopter giveaway


Must be 18 or older to enter. Open to all countries. Void where prohibited. Winner has 48 hours to respond to email notification, or another winner will be chosen. Alexandra of EyeLoveKnots (that's me) is responsible for prize fulfillment.
I want to thank those of you who link up with us, and those of you who visit with those who link up. Sharing the love, and helping each other with more traffic is awesome! Keep it up!
This week I am featuring, from left to right, top to bottom: Dirndl Bag, Crochet Inspiration with Basic Steps from Sachsenrose, Henriette Square, Crochet Pattern Review from Natas Nest, Anna's Blanket, Crochet Inspiration from Keep on Keeping on, and Stashbusting: African Flower Squares, Crochet Inspiration from Hilde Hook. 


Now, Share Your Granny-Spiration Project With Us!

New Granny-Spiration Projects will be shared from your hosts the first Saturday of each month. Post times will vary. You will be able to link up from 12:00am EST on the first Saturday of the month, through midnight EST on the second Thursday from the start date - specific dates are on top of the Rafflecopter form - giving you almost two weeks to link up and enter the giveaway!

Please share projects that are family friendly, and GRANNY INSPIRED through use of regular granny square or solid granny square, granny stitch pattern or other afghan square in the form of a free pattern, pattern review, or inspiration piece. Not limited to crochet or knit.

Please make sure to link to your post, and not your home page. 

*If you don't have a blog, you can still share with us by creating a Free Flickr Account - powered by Yahoo. Add your projects there, and then come back here with the link for the project.


*Link ups cannot be to Etsy listings or Ravelry pages where patterns are sold. You can link to blog posts, Flickr or Facebook pages, Pins, etc that are directed towards it, but can't directly link to it. 

To be clearer though, Raverly pages of finished projects are okay to share. Sorry for the inconvenience! That's per InLinkz guidelines. Thanks!


Features may be chosen at the discretion of each host. By linking up, you give us permission to feature your item.